How to negotiate a price on a private sale car in Australia

Negotiating a private used car sale is very different from negotiating with a dealer. There is usually no warranty, fewer legal protections, and far more variation in how sellers price their cars. The good news is that private sellers are often more flexible, if you approach negotiation the right way.

This guide shows you exactly when to negotiate, how much to offer, what to say, and how to protect yourself while doing it.

Quick answer: the negotiation formula that works

Successful negotiation in a private sale comes down to four things:

1. Know the car’s real market value before you inspect it.
2. Inspect first, then negotiate using evidence.
3. Price defects realistically, not emotionally.
4. Be ready to walk away if the numbers don’t stack up.

1) Do your price research before contacting the seller

Before you message or call the seller, you should already know:

• The typical private sale price for that exact model, year, engine, and transmission.
• The price difference between low and high kilometre examples.
• Common faults or expensive services due at that mileage.

Tools Australians use to check value

• Carsales and Facebook Marketplace sold listings
• RedBook and CarsGuide price guides
• Owner forums for known issues and service intervals

Important: advertised prices are not sale prices. Most private cars sell for less than the asking price.

2) Never negotiate properly until after inspection

Negotiating before you inspect removes your strongest leverage. Once you inspect the car, you can negotiate using facts instead of opinions.

What inspection gives you leverage

• Worn tyres or brakes
• Oil leaks or coolant issues
• Suspension noises
• Overdue servicing (timing belt, transmission service)
• Interior wear that doesn’t match kilometres

Sellers expect negotiation after inspection. If you push hard before seeing the car, many sellers simply stop replying.

3) How much should you negotiate on a private sale car?

There is no fixed percentage, but in Australia these ranges are common:

• Well-priced, clean car: 3 to 7 percent
• Average condition with minor issues: 7 to 12 percent
• Clear maintenance needed: 10 to 20 percent
• Overpriced listing: sometimes more than 20 percent, or not worth pursuing

Negotiation should reflect real costs, not just a desire for a bargain.

4) How to price defects properly (this is where deals are made)

The strongest negotiations use repair costs, not vague concerns.

Examples of realistic negotiation adjustments

• Four tyres near legal limit: $600 to $1,200
• Brake pads and rotors due: $500 to $1,200
• Timing belt overdue: $800 to $1,800
• Suspension clunks or worn bushes: $400 to $1,500+
• Air conditioning not working: $300 to $2,000+

You don’t need exact quotes, but you should understand realistic ranges. This turns negotiation into a rational conversation.

5) What to say when negotiating (scripts that work)

Opening the negotiation

After inspection:

“The car drives well, but I’ve noticed the tyres are close to replacement and the service history shows the timing belt hasn’t been done. That puts a fair bit of cost on me.”

Making the offer

“Based on that, I’d be comfortable at $10,500 today if that works for you.”

If the seller pushes back

“I understand your price. I’m just factoring in the work I’ll need to do straight away. If you change your mind, let me know.”

This keeps the tone respectful and leaves the door open.

6) Use timing to your advantage

Private sellers are more flexible when:

• The car has been listed for more than 3 to 4 weeks
• They are buying another vehicle soon
• Registration is close to expiring
• You can complete the sale immediately

Being ready to buy today is one of the strongest negotiation tools you have.

7) Cash vs bank transfer: what actually matters

Cash itself doesn’t magically reduce the price, but certainty does.

• Immediate payment
• No finance approval delays
• No complicated conditions

Sellers will often accept less to avoid uncertainty or multiple inspections.

8) Negotiation mistakes that cost buyers money

• Insulting the seller’s price without evidence
• Pointing out minor cosmetic issues that don’t affect value
• Making unrealistic lowball offers
• Falling in love with the car before negotiating
• Ignoring red flags just to “win” the deal

9) When to walk away (this protects you)

You should walk away if:

• The seller refuses a PPSR check
• The story doesn’t match the evidence
• Major faults are dismissed as “normal”
• The price no longer makes sense after repairs

Walking away is not a failure. It is often the decision that saves you thousands.

10) Final negotiation checklist

1. Research real market value
2. Inspect before negotiating
3. List defects with realistic costs
4. Make a clear, justified offer
5. Be polite and prepared to leave
6. Complete PPSR and paperwork before paying

FAQ: Negotiating private used car prices in Australia

Should I negotiate price before seeing the car?

Only lightly. Serious negotiation should happen after inspection, when you have evidence.

Is it rude to negotiate on a private sale?

No. Most private sellers expect negotiation, as long as it is respectful and justified.

What if the seller says the price is firm?

Inspect the car anyway if it suits you. Sellers sometimes soften once issues are identified.

How much can I realistically negotiate?

Anywhere from a few hundred dollars on a clean car to several thousand if maintenance or repairs are needed.

Does paying cash help?

It helps by speeding up the sale, not by forcing a discount. Certainty matters more than cash itself.