Buying a Second-Hand Motorcycle in Australia, Used Motorbike Checklist

The complete second-hand motorbike buying guide (Australia)

Buying a second-hand motorcycle in Australia can be a smart move, you avoid the biggest depreciation hit and you can often step into a better model for the same money. The trade-off is risk, hidden crash damage, finance owing, stolen parts, dodgy modifications, and expensive maintenance that the seller “forgot” to mention.

This guide is designed to help you buy confidently, with practical checks, paperwork steps, and state-by-state transfer rules. It is relevant whether you are buying your first bike or upgrading to something more specialised.

1) Choose the right type of bike (before you look at listings)

Match the bike to your real use

Commuting: fuel economy, low seat height, simple servicing, good mirrors, storage options (top box, panniers).
Weekend fun: predictable handling, good tyres, strong brakes, suspension condition matters more than top speed.
Touring: comfort, wind protection, luggage mounts, service intervals, chain or shaft drive considerations.
Adventure: spoke wheels, suspension travel, crash bars, skid plate, evidence of off-road use and falls.
Scooters: low running costs, easy parking, check CVT service history and belt intervals.

If you are on a learner or restricted licence (LAMS)

If you must ride a learner-approved motorcycle, confirm the exact model is approved in your state or territory before paying a deposit. LAMS rules and approved lists are managed by state and territory road authorities and they can differ. Non-compliance can mean fines and insurance problems.

2) Set a realistic budget (the bike is not the whole cost)

A common mistake is spending the whole budget on the bike, then cutting corners on safety and maintenance. Build a total cost view.

Safety gear: helmet, jacket, gloves, pants, boots. Prioritise fit and proper certification.
Transfer and registration costs: transfer fees and duty vary by state and bike value.
Immediate maintenance: tyres, chain and sprockets, brakes, battery, fluids, and a baseline service if history is unclear.
Insurance: can vary sharply by bike type, theft risk, modifications, and where you live.

3) Where to buy: dealer vs private sale vs auctions

Dealer purchase

Dealers generally cost more, but you may get statutory warranties in some circumstances, clearer paperwork, and easier payment options. Conditions vary by state and bike age/value. Check exactly what the dealer is promising in writing, especially about roadworthiness and included servicing.

Private sale

Private sales can be cheaper, but you must do more due diligence. The biggest risks are finance owing, stolen or rebirthed bikes, poor repairs, and undisclosed defects.

Auctions

Auctions can offer bargains, and can also hide expensive problems. You may have limited test ride options and shorter return rights. Treat auction bikes as “inspection first” purchases and price in extra risk.

4) Non-negotiable checks before you travel to inspect the bike

Confirm identity details match

Ask for the VIN and engine number (or at least the VIN) and ensure the seller’s name matches the registration papers where applicable. If a seller refuses to share the VIN before inspection, treat it as a red flag.

Run a PPSR search (finance owing, and other risks)

In Australia, a PPSR used vehicle search can help you identify whether a vehicle has a security interest (commonly money owing). A security interest can mean the bike can be repossessed even if you have paid the seller. PPSR searches can also indicate if the vehicle may be recorded as stolen or written off (availability can depend on systems at the time of the search).

Best practice: do the PPSR check on the exact VIN, and do it close to the time you pay (not a week earlier).

5) How to read listings properly (and spot time-wasters)

Good listings usually include

Clear, recent photos from multiple angles, including dash, tyres, chain, and any damage.
Odometer reading and service history evidence.
Known faults disclosed (honestly written listings are usually better buys).
Exact model variant, year, and whether it is LAMS-approved (if relevant).

Common red flags

“Just needs a tune” or “easy fix” without receipts or diagnosis.
Fresh paint on frame areas with no explanation.
Missing compliance plate details, missing keys, missing service book, or missing receipts.
Heavily modified bikes with no engineering or compliance evidence where required.

6) The on-site inspection checklist (use this in person)

A) Walk-around checks (before you start the engine)

VIN locations: check the VIN on the bike matches paperwork and looks untampered (no grinding marks, odd rivets, or mismatched fonts).
Frame and subframe: look for cracks, dents, or ripples. Check alignment of panels and gaps.
Forks: inspect fork tubes for oil leaks or pitting. Pump the front suspension, check for sticking or harsh clunks.
Rear shock: check for leaks and excessive sag. Look for corrosion and worn linkages.
Tyres: check tread, sidewall cracking, uneven wear, and the tyre age code. Old tyres can look “fine” but handle badly.
Chain and sprockets (if chain drive): look for tight spots, rust, poor lubrication, hooked sprocket teeth, and excessive slack.
Brakes: check pad thickness, rotor grooves, and brake fluid colour. Spongy levers can indicate old fluid or other issues.
Controls: smooth throttle snap-back, clutch feel, lever free play, and bar ends.
Signs of a crash: scraped bar ends, levers, footpegs, engine covers, mirror stalks, and mismatched plastics.

B) Start-up checks (preferably cold start)

Cold start behaviour: a healthy bike should start reasonably quickly. Hard starting can point to battery, fuel, or tune issues.
Smoke: persistent blue smoke can indicate oil burning. White smoke that continues after warm-up can be coolant-related on some engines.
Idle: listen for irregular idle, rattles, knocks, and ticking beyond normal valve noise.
Warning lights: check ABS, engine light, and charging indicators behave normally.
Cooling system (liquid-cooled bikes): check for leaks, coolant smell, and that the fan cycles when hot.

C) Mechanical feel checks (standing still)

Steering head bearings: with front wheel lightened, turn bars lock-to-lock and feel for notchiness.
Wheel bearings: spin wheels and listen for grinding, feel for side play.
Clutch: check for dragging (bike wants to creep in gear with clutch in) or slipping (revs rise without speed under load).
Gearbox: click through gears (engine off), feel for abnormal resistance.

7) Test ride safely (and legally)

Only test ride if you are legally licensed and insured to do so, and if the seller agrees. Many sellers will require cash in hand or proof of insurance. If you cannot test ride, at minimum negotiate a condition that the sale depends on a professional inspection.

Check braking performance and whether the bike pulls to one side under braking.
Check for wobble at speed, handlebar shake, or instability that could indicate tyre, alignment, or bearing issues.
Confirm smooth throttle response and gearbox behaviour across multiple gears.
Check clutch take-up and low-speed fuelling in traffic-like conditions.

8) Modifications: when they add value and when they add risk

Lower-risk upgrades (when done properly)

Quality tyres, brake pads, braided lines from reputable brands.
Crash protection (frame sliders, engine guards) that does not interfere with controls.
Comfort upgrades (seat, windscreen) that do not create safety issues.

Higher-risk modifications

Aftermarket exhausts that may breach noise limits or emissions rules in your state.
Major engine tuning, de-restriction, or ECU changes without dyno evidence and supporting paperwork.
Suspension changes without receipts or correct setup.
Electrical changes that cause warning lights, poor charging, or unreliable starting.

9) Negotiation: how to price defects fairly

Negotiation is easiest when you bring evidence, not opinions. A clean approach is to list issues, estimate the cost to rectify, and propose a price adjustment based on that.

Practical example

Example: You are looking at a 2017 mid-size naked bike with 38,000 km. It looks tidy, but you find:

Rear tyre is near the wear bars and looks aged.
Chain has tight spots and sprocket teeth are hooking.
Fork seals show early weeping.

Your negotiation angle is simple: “The bike is the right model for me, but I will need to replace tyres, chain and sprockets, and likely address the fork seals. If you are comfortable adjusting the price to reflect those costs, I can finalise today.”

Keep it respectful. If the seller will not move and the bike needs work, you can walk away. There will be another bike.

10) Paperwork you should always get (and keep)

Written receipt with date, sale price, VIN, engine number (if available), licence numbers (or IDs), and signatures.
Registration papers or proof of registration status, where applicable in your state.
Service history, logbook stamps, invoices, and major work receipts.
Keys: ideally two keys, plus any immobiliser fobs if fitted.
PPSR search certificate for your records.

11) State and territory rules that commonly affect second-hand motorcycle purchases

Registration transfer processes, inspection requirements, and seller obligations vary by state and territory. Always confirm requirements with your local road authority before you pay. The points below highlight common rules and high-impact differences.

Transfer time limits (most are 14 days)

NSW: transfer into your name within 14 days after purchase to avoid a late fee.
VIC: buyers must notify within 14 days of purchase.
QLD: buyers must finalise the transfer within 14 days.
WA: buyer must submit the application within 14 days.
SA: transfer within 14 days to avoid a late fee.
TAS: transfer within 14 days or penalties may apply.
ACT: transfer within 14 days, late fee may apply.
NT: buyer must apply to transfer within 14 days.

Roadworthy and inspections: key differences that affect buyers

Victoria: a roadworthy certificate may be required for sale and transfer and it is a safety check, not a guarantee of mechanical reliability.
Queensland: from 1 July 2025, a safety certificate is no longer required before offering a registered vehicle for sale, but it must still be obtained before disposing of a registered vehicle (including transferring it to a new owner), with exceptions in some cases such as sales to licensed motor dealers.
ACT: a roadworthy inspection and Certificate of Inspection is required in specific cases, including transferring ACT registration for a vehicle over 6 years old.
WA: if licensing a vehicle from interstate, it must be inspected at an Authorised Inspection Station and issued with a certificate of inspection before it can be licensed in WA. WA also notes that if a vehicle licence has expired by more than 15 days it is deemed unlicensed and the new owner may need an inspection and a new licence application.
SA: roadworthy inspections are required in certain scenarios, such as defect notices, non-standard engines, or significant modifications, rather than as a universal step in every sale.
TAS: inspections are required for vehicles not currently registered in Tasmania (including interstate vehicles) and where registration has expired for more than 3 months, among other reasons.
NT: registration and transfer processes can require roadworthy inspections and compliance checks depending on the vehicle and circumstances, and you can check if an inspection is required.

12) Helmet and gear compliance (don’t get caught out)

Helmet rules are enforced across Australia. Requirements vary by jurisdiction, but generally you must wear an approved helmet with evidence of compliance. Queensland guidance lists AS/NZS 1698 or AS1698, and ECE 22.05 or 22.06 as accepted standards when riding. If you are buying second-hand gear, make sure the helmet has the required markings and is in safe condition.

13) Final buyer checklist (print this)

Shortlist bikes that match your riding needs and licence class (including LAMS if relevant).
Get VIN and run a PPSR search close to purchase time.
Inspect the bike in daylight, start from cold if possible.
Check tyres, chain and sprockets, brakes, forks, frame, and signs of a crash.
Confirm service history and major maintenance items are documented.
Test ride legally and safely, or arrange a professional inspection.
Agree price based on evidence and expected maintenance costs.
Complete a written receipt, keep copies of all documents.
Transfer registration within your state’s deadline.
Insure the bike before you ride it home.

FAQ: Buying a second-hand motorcycle in Australia

Should I always do a PPSR check on a used motorbike?

Yes. A PPSR search can identify a security interest that could allow repossession even after you pay. It can also return other relevant information depending on system availability at the time of search.

Is a roadworthy certificate the same as a mechanical inspection?

No. A roadworthy certificate is a safety check. In Victoria, official guidance notes it does not guarantee the vehicle is mechanically reliable. A pre-purchase mechanical inspection is broader and may uncover expensive issues a roadworthy check does not.

What if the seller says the bike is “never been dropped” but it has scratches?

Scratches on levers, bar ends, engine covers, pegs, and mirrors often indicate at least a low-speed fall. Ask direct questions and look for consistent evidence across both sides of the bike and the plastics. If the story does not match the evidence, price the risk in or walk away.

Do I need a roadworthy certificate to buy a motorcycle in Queensland?

Queensland rules changed from 1 July 2025. A safety certificate is no longer required before offering a registered vehicle for sale, but it must still be obtained before disposing of a registered vehicle, including transferring it to a new owner, with some exceptions.

How quickly do I need to transfer registration after buying a used bike?

In many jurisdictions it is 14 days, and late fees can apply. Check your state or territory road authority and complete the transfer quickly to avoid liability issues.

Is buying a modified bike a bad idea?

Not always, but it raises risk. Prefer bikes with high-quality parts, receipts, and conservative modifications. Avoid heavily tuned or extensively modified bikes if you cannot verify compliance, workmanship, and reliability.

The Ultimate Guide to Buying a Second-Hand Motorcycle in Australia